Fixing existing framing problems
Because remodeling accounts for more than two-thirds of the amount spent annually on construction, it isn’t enough for a small builder to be able to put a bathroom together from scratch. He also needs to be able to analyze an existing bathroom and pinpoint its problems.
Besides the typical framing problems of working with an existing structure, the biggest hurdle in most renovation bathroom projects is making room for changes, which often requires demolition. I always approach demolition with two competing impulses. One is to totally gut the room and cart everything away to the dump, while the other is to try to remove as little as possible. Though expensive and messy, gutting gives you the most control over the final product and is often the only way to fix problems like sagging or rotting joists and studs. Sometimes, though, surgical demolition is a less-expensive and more efficient alternative, particularly if the character of the bathroom is worth saving.
If you are remodeling a bathroom, you’ll need to take a close look at the framing, which may be difficult depending on where the bathroom is located in the house. In some cases, framing problems begin at the foundation, so be sure to check its condition. An out-of-level floor indicates that there may be some problem that needs to be addressed, like undersized joists, but finished floors and ceilings may make it difficult to determine the exact problem until you can open things up. Bouncing in place on the floor should give you a rough idea of its load-bearing capacity.
When checking the floor system, keep in mind the proposed finished floor; tile is less forgiving of structural deficiencies than resilient flooring. Fixing a structurally inadequate floor may mean replacing or sistering on floor joists to beef up the floor system or providing other means of structural support.
Walls need to be checked to make sure that they are plumb and straight. Commonly you’ll find the insulation in the walls is inadequate. Many times there are voids caused by careless insulation installation, but you won’t know this unless you open up the walls. If you do open up walls, be sure to add blocking for grab bars and look for (and fill with caulk) holes in the exterior sheathing.
If you notice a stud that is bowed, it can be brought back into alignment by cutting a notch in it to accept a 2×4 that extends to the adjacent studs. Nail one side of the 2×4 to one of the studs, then push back on the other end until the offending stud is in alignment again, toenailing it as necessary. Of course, if the stud is accessible at the top and bottom, it might be easier just to replace it. Another method of straightening crooked walls and ceilings is to fur the walls out with lx strapping and appropriately placed shims, a technique that I regularly use in renovation work.
Ceilings shouldn’t be neglected either. Cracks in plaster or openings around fixtures or ceiling fans allow warm moist air to escape into the house framing or attic, and they should be sealed off. A suspended ceiling is notorious for allowing warm air to escape, though you’ll often see them installed in old houses with high ceilings in the theory that the lower ceiling will make the room easier to heat and more comfortable. It’s better to frame a new ceiling with 2x4s or 2x6s and use regular drywall, which is effective at stopping air movement and vapor transmission. And if the ceiling is also an attic, be sure that a complete blanket of insulation is up on top.